Romantic, rustic Bellavitae made a name for itself through its excellent sourcing; the owners, after all, are top importers of quality olive oil, vinegar, salumi, pasta, cheese--anything yummy and Italian. Their latest import: Raffaele Ronca, an extraordinarily talented chef adding homespun amore to the menu.

Some past favorites--like the "fried little meatballs"--are still available. But Ronca's wowing additions include grilled Calabrian Colavolpe figs (pre-ordered a year in advance) wrapped in pancetta, and roasted cauliflower with pignoli nuts and black currants. And go on Wednesday (when cheese delivery comes in) to enjoy the quick-to-sell-out ricotta balls, delicately flash-fried until "dorato"--just golden.

Born in Naples, and bred as a butcher from boyhood, Ronca is exceptionally adept at deboning an entire Cornish hen. The roasted bird emerges juicy, aromatic and extremely knife-friendly. "I'm constantly on the phone with my mother in Italy," he says, crediting her with helping him tweak recipes like a soulful paccheri pasta with beef ragu, and fresh puntarelle with green olive oil and a touch of anchovy.

Written on the menu at Bellavitae: "The secret to great Italian cooking is a well-stocked pantry." It doesn't hurt to have a chef with a direct line to the old country, too.