Though not everyone seems to agree on the overall quality of Bar Boulud, the one thing that's received unanimous praise is the restaurant's charcuterie program. The pates, rillettes and saucisson are the work of Gilles Verot, a legend in France, and his Tourte de Gibiers au Genievre (pheasant, duck and partridge served "en croute") is so tasty it should be available on more New York corners than Pinkberry. Fortunately, many restaurants do offer gourmet meat plates, and we've whittled the list down to five charcuterie standouts.

(Photo of Bar Boulud's charcuterie plate by Eric Laignel)

There's always so much buzz on blogs about the latest and the not-so-greatest while many a long-standing eatery chugs by unnoticed. Today's unsung hero: Malatesta. Here's why Malatesta makes me happy: homemade pastas. Meatballs like my mom makes. A chicken cutlet like my grandmother made. Piadina (thin pizza bread) stuffed with melted mozzarella and prosciutto. The specials are scrawled in marker on brown butcher paper. The service is adorably scruffy. And at half a block away from my apartment, it comes in handy for those frigid nights when a face-numbing wind whips off the river. Forecast for tonight: 31 degrees; artichoke ravioli. 

We've just received word of a chef shuffle at Geisha, the Upper East Side fusion spot (and Gossip Girl shooting location). Out is four-year vet Michael Vernon, who's "off to pursue seafood," according to the release. Taking his place as executive chef is Richard Lee, who has been with the restaurant since 2003. Some dishes to look forward to on Lee's spring menu: a Kumamoto oyster shot with honeydew water, melon relish and fresh grated wasabi; pan-roasted filet of striped bass with sunchokes and osetra caviar butter; and boneless rack of lamb with ginger braised red cabbage and fingerling potatoes.

(Photo by Alessandra Rotondi)

The requester: A relative

The request: "I'm meeting a fellow attorney for dinner. I can spend some money, but it can't be crazy expensive. He's from out of town so I'd like to take him somewhere cool. Here's the catch: near Grand Central."

The suggestions: Gypsy-trendy Django serves great cocktails at the lively bar downstairs, and modern Mediterranean cuisine in its upstairs dining room. The "Pera tradition" feast at Turkish brasserie Pera offers a great value--and an onslaught of meze and meat. Riingo at the Alex Hotel features a Japanese-inspired menu by Aquavit and Merkato 55 chef Marcus Samuelsson. And it's a good room to talk in. If you don't mind straying a few more blocks north of Grand Central, I really like Pampano for its upscale, seafood-focused Mexican cuisine and its whitewashed dining room. The margaritas are terrific, too.

The choice: "I chose Riingo since I remembered the chef from Aquavit and my guest, from the Bay Area, likes sushi."

The result: "I really enjoyed the rare sushi with pumpkin puree--that was great. Dessert was a little strange, though. I ordered the warm chocolate cake (excellent, but now i need to run five miles...) but at first they brought me out some sort of mousse and seemed mystified that I actually requested them to bring me what I clearly ordered. The room was a little on the quiet side, but it felt familiar and welcoming."

(Photo courtesy of Riingo)

While at dinner at Alain Ducasse's Adour last night, I was able to snap a picture of the much-discussed high-tech wine bar on the way out. The basic setup: A projector beams the menu onto a touch-receptive bar top, where patrons are able to scroll through wine choices by touching the actual bar. While it certainly grabs your attention, the whole thing is a bit gimmicky. For all the hype, the bar offers a piddly four seats, and looks ever-so-slightly like a manicure should come with your vino. Also, normal non-gizmofied bars get grubby enough--does anyone really want to sit at one where people are encouraged to wipe their hands all over it?

What is it about big-name chefs that they incite such polar reactions to their restaurants? Is it a general (and understandable) reaction against franchising as they open multiple restaurants that they usually don't do much cooking in? Or is it just a general disdain for the celebrity-obsessed culture that's moved into every area of our lives?

After reading many middling reviews of Bar Boulud, Daniel Boulud's haute bistro on the Upper West Side, I went to dinner expecting to be disappointed. Instead, I had one of the best meals I've had in a while, including a decadently rich coq au vin that finally made me get why the dish is such a classic.

And, though, as many have stated, the service is a little hectic, to me it's overshadowed by the down-to-earth sommelier who not only didn't sneer at or request for a cheaper bottle, but even recommended a perfect, versatile red for six bucks under our target.

So am I nuts, or did everyone else go in with expectations that were too high? It was certainly miles ahead of a meal I had at the other Upper West Side press-getter, Dovetail, but that's a story for next week. Click through to read the review, plus take a look at our take on Williamsburg's Miranda and eight more new and notable restaurants.

Restaurant craze du jour: Labeling "LaFrieda burgers." This week alone, I noticed wholesaler Pat LaFrieda's patties highlighted on menus at Seymour Burton, Cooper's Tavern and Steak Frites. Though LaFrieda has been anonymously providing premier beef for years at spots including the Spotted Pig and Shake Shack, this blip of burger branding has been spurred on, no doubt, by recent props from the likes of Men's Vogue, Grub Street and all the hoopla about the beef becoming available for consumers at Market Table. Or maybe that creepy chicken on LaFrieda's Washington Street building has some sort of subliminal, hypnotic power? Must..ask...for...beef...by...wholesaler...name....

Some recent developments afoot at Dennis Foy's eponymous restaurant in Tribeca. Lunch and brunch service has started, with the lunch prix fixe sounding like an especially good value at $24.08. Foy's pretty platings seem to have extended to the midday menus, as seen in this dish on the brunch menu, smoked salmon with fingerling potatoes and golden beets ($14).

to good to eat from ian black on Vimeo.

The Oscars were a pretty big snooze last night, and I'm still ticked off that the person who won our pool hasn't shown up at our gathering for years. But watching this video really cheered me up today, and also made me think the telecast might be a whole lot more entertaining if they forwent the dull montages and instead had viewers send in clips like the one above. It's a submission for our Love at First Bite contest, in which we're giving away a $1,000 American Express gift card for the best 30-second video detailing your favorite foods. Think you're funnier than this nutty kid who really, really loves his Gran's chocolate eclair? Prove it. (Hurry: Contest ends March 7.)

The long, white marble bar at Jody Williams' Gottino is my new spot for those "Greta Garbo nights"--solo dinners out when I want to strap into a magazine, keep conversation to ordering only, and not share a crumb with anyone. Recently, I devoured New York Magazine's deliciously salacious story about drowned hedge-funder Seth Tobias while nibbling on pinkie-sized pork ribs; fluffy bacala served in mini mason jars; a wee ramekin full of bread "stuffing" with pigs trotters and chestnuts; and a tiny glasslet of sweet milk gelato. Not only the lonely can play here, since there are a handful of tables. But it's good to know there's a place to go when you just want to be alone.