I've recently paid two visits to Commerce, the Harold Moore (ex-Montrachet) spot that replaced the Blue Mill and one-time Grange Hall. Both times, I adored the food, especially the lemongrass-laced red snapper, a bisquey take on lobster Newburg, rare beef tataki with ginger and soy, a rich duck and foie gras rillettes terrine, the perky fluke sashimi... (I could go on and on). The first time, I sat in the cacophonous dining room, where conversation was impossible. The second time, I was much better situated at the bar. The noise, surprisingly, doesn't resound as much there.

Also, instead of being doled out bread from a wandering server, we won ourselves a whole basket of their notably fantastic variety, including mini soft pretzels and olive brioche. Finally, after noticing the bartender, who we came to know as Steven, intently tinkering with and tasting each cocktail, I surpassed the wine list for an Agave Stinger (pictured above), a smooth blend of tequila, honey and lime. The best part was witnessing Steven adroitly deal with a pack of over-gelled douchebags, who--after he labored over their drinks-- kept asserting that "these margaritas are off!" His easy manner never wavered as he replaced them with another offering, and a genuine smile.

Bonus note: Commerce's Easter menu this Sunday includes a special saddle of lamb served with a carrot puree and a spring salad of stir-fried veggies.