Chef Talk: Jared Stafford-Hill of Bobo
Posted at 11:56:45 AM in Chef talk, West Village restaurantsby Kathleen Squires
When atmospheric townhouse restaurant Bobo opened this fall, an instant scene came along with it. But so did kitchen trauma when opening chef Nicolas Cantrel (now Bagatelle) was out after only a few months tenure. Then Jared Stafford-Hill (ex-Hearth) stepped in. His new menu--and green initiative--is finally drawing more attention than the celeb patrons, the name (a David Brooks-coined combo of bohemian and bourgeois), and the gorgeous interior design. I chatted with the chef recently about exactly how he's making his mark.
KS: What do you bring to the Bobo equation and what changes did you make to the menu to reflect that?
Jared Stafford-Hill: Well, I'm somewhat of a Bobo myself. I'm a creative type that enjoys the finer things in life. So I think I bring a passion for the highest quality ingredients and some refinement and luxury to the Bobo equation. The jamon Iberico and beef Fiorentina with oxtail soffrito are dishes that show that.
KS: Which dish on the menu do you feel is the most "bohemian?"
JSH: The charcuterie rustique (pork rillettes, parsley'd ham terrine, frisee and bacon salad, pickled pearl onions and carrots) because it's authentic, traditional country food.
KS: Which dish is the most "bourgeois?"
JSH: The charcuterie gourmand (duck and foie gras terrine, salted air dried duck breast, mache salad with [real] truffle vinaigrette) because of the intricate technique used to make the elements, and the ingredients themselves are high-end and luxurious.
KS: Did you have any hesitation stepping into a spot so lauded for its decor?
JSH: No, because beautiful food and a beautiful restaurant aren't mutually exclusive. I think the space and the kitchen compliment each other and create a great overall experience. We do have a problem with all that candle wax ending up in the dishes, though. (Just kidding).
KS: What green initiatives are you experimenting with in the kitchen?
JSH: We filter our own water and make our own sparkling water. We're also doing a ton of composting and our oils are recycled and processed into biofuels. We're also working on partnerships with nearby schools to get some "greenroof" programs rolling where we can grow herbs and vegetables on roofs for use in our kitchen. Right now we're planting herbs in our own outdoor garden and we're working with CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) to buy our produce.
KS: What in your opinion is the one socially conscious thing a home cook should do?
JSH: Buying locally is key. By doing that, you're supporting local agriculture and getting a product with a low carbon footprint.
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