You know how sometimes you make a mistake, but then that turns out to be a blessing in disguise? My mistake of stepping into Ago last week ended up bringing me to one of my favorite new finds of the year.
The mistake was my fault, I suppose, for being curious about the new DeNiro-Weinstein joint. The bar was a douchetorium full of shouting, Heineken-swilling, post-work boozers. I felt sorry for anyone who was seated in the front room and trying to have a conversation. I even felt sorry for anyone seated in the back room. I started to feel sorry for myself for even standing inside the room. The only way I'd take a table in that mess is if it were in another building. Several blocks away. In another restaurant altogether.
So I beat it out of there and strolled up Greenwich Street. When I happened upon Greenwich Grill, I stopped, remembering it was a new Japanese-owned spot that was supposed to have a sushi-bar adjunct. I stepped inside, and was greeted by a Japanese staff, shouting their customary Japanese welcomes. But I was handed an Italian menu with the likes of spaghetti carbonara and herb roasted spring chicken on it. "Is there a sushi bar here?" I asked, confused. The hostess's face brightened as she nodded and whispered into her headset. She asked me to wait a minute.
Then she ushered me through the length of the restaurant, down a flight of stairs, into a bamboo-ceilinged basement sushi bar called Sushi Azabu. I loved the intimate room. I loved that I was the only Western face there. I loved that it seemed to be a douche-free zone.
I ordered an extremely reasonable omakase course: $30 for an appetizer, 10 pieces of sushi, one maki roll and soup, authentically served, piece by piece, by the hard-working chef standing in front of me. Some gems: ginger flavored pencil fish; scallops topped with shaved lemon and sea salt; salmon, seared by a blow-torch; chu-toro capped with a cluster of miso.
The high quality, lack of signage and absence of a street entrance brought me back to the Tokyo neighborhood where I lived this past fall. It was full of exciting eateries tucked in the oddest places--under train tracks; on the 22nd floors of corporate offices; in random, non-descript basements. For a few hours last night, Tribeca became that place.
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