Early Report: Bar Milano
Posted at 02:29:12 PM in Gramercy restaurants, Restaurant openingsby Kathleen Squires
At the month-old Bar Milano, the brothers Denton ('ino, 'inoteca, Lupa) abandon their usual rustic environs for a modern Milanese milieu. I loved the look: gorgeous marble walls, mod furnishings, wine lockers, a sunny, buzzing bar area and trendy tableware that complements all the designer attire in the room. The food nicely marries couture cuisine with comfort cooking, starting with giant, generously-charred octopus tentacles (so big they looked like they could capsize a boat). A bed of fragrant fennel and bitter radicchio rounded out the dish's smoky personality. Crunchy carrots lent a smooth rabbit terrine some texture; and fat, caramelized scallops (pictured) topped with caviar and sitting on a minty fava bean puree showcased the season like a finely-tailored suit. The pastas were my favorite, however, especially the osso buco ravioli, little pasta packets finely stretched around rich, shredded veal; and the buttery taglioni ribbons, twirled around garlic and ramps. I'm looking forward to going back and seeing what's in style for the summer.








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