It only took me four tries to eat at Shopsin's. The first time was July 3rd, and apparently they were closing early for the holiday. The second attempt was one of those hot, sticky days where I started hallucinating fellow passengers on the subway platform were actually whole chickens turning in a convection oven. When I finally got to the Essex Street Market, the grate was down again with a sign, "Too hot to cook." On the third try, it was my fault, as I forgot they were closed on Mondays, although the infamously prickly owner was sitting there. When I asked if he would be open on Tuesday, he mumbled something like "not dependable" in response. Finally, after deciding I might just give up on the place, a day of decent weather and a rumbling morning stomach encouraged me to give it one more shot.
The gate was open and Kenny was chatting away with someone. We asked if we should just sit anywhere. "Why not imagine you're customers, and see what happens," he replied obliquely. What followed was a pretty stinking delicious breakfast that finally brought me around to the cult of Kenny. As many have mentioned, it's mind-blowing how many different dishes he and staff whip up in such a tiny space. I had an eggs, rice, cheese and spicy bean dish, while my dining companion had huevos rancheros. Spiciness is specified by 1-10 and my 7 was pretty much right on. Both dishes exuded just the right kind of homeyness you want from breakfast fare.
Next time you're doing some shopping in the Lower East Side and want a quick, soul-satisfying breakfast or lunch, this is definitely the spot--just make sure to come with a backup plan!
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